How To Prune A Tree The Right Way

The structure of a tree

Pruning a tree should be a relatively simple matter, if we stop and think about the way a tree grows. A tree, as any other plant, adds length from the bottom upward, a system known as elongation. In order to get nutrients from one point to the other, so that this elongation can occur, there is a system of vessels one known as xylem, the other phloem. these are surrounded by the living tissue known as cambium. Inside all this, is the woody tissue. This is non living tissue, cells deposited as the tree grows outward. These serve as a structural base for the tree.

Tree growth cells

Trees have certain tissues that are more likely to produce new growth than others. These are found at and nearby nodes, or junctions. A tree has a certain growth pattern, genetically predetermined, and a given species will grow in a particular, and predictable pattern. When working with a tree, it is always best to work with this pattern, not against it. Topiary aside, the plant has a way that it wants to grow, and it will try to grow that way.

Taking advantage of tree growth cells

Many of the “growth” cells are located in the joints where one branch or limb connects to another. When we prune, it is always best to prune close to the callous of this junction. If we move to far from it, we leave an extension that will eventually rot, and allow water and disease into the structural part of the tree. If we prune “flush” with the adjoining limb, we cut most of the callous from the joint, and slow the recovery of the wound. Some cells are much more likely to produce the adventitious growth cells need for the tree to heal, removing them, or making a cut to far away from them is a mistake.

Making clean cuts

It is best for the cut to be clean, no jagged edges, or torn tissue. I often check my cuts, and trim any jagged edges with my pocket knife, which I keep razor sharp for just such occasions.

Pruning paint

There is one thing which gardeners seem to hang onto with the tenacity of religious belief, which should be “exorcised” from the world of pruning. It is a product which has been badly miss named, called, pruning paint. I have looked at thousands of trees, that have had this applied, and have never seen one completely callous over, or heal. For whatever reason, the callous will not form, or adhere to the paint, and the wound, though covered, never quite heals.

The Tree’s natural shape

When you are thinking of pruning a tree, your first step should be to get as far away from it as possible. Look at the shape, and growth pattern. Is it rounded? is the habit conical? This will give you a chance to think about the finished form you would like to achieve. Many people, among them supposed professionals, shape a tree by treating it like a shrub.

Let me say this very strongly: NEVER, EVER, PRUNE A TREE, BY ANY MEANS OTHER THAN CUTTING BACK TO A LATERAL LIMB, BRANCH, OR TRUNK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NEVER ALLOW YOUR LAWNCARE COMPANY OR TREE CARE PROFESSIONAL TO DO IT TO YOUR TREES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Proof of the truth

If you need proof of what I am saying, go to a place where trees have been pruned by the method I describe, thy will be callousing over, healing, without growing very many water sprouts or disease susceptible, badly connected new growth.

Now find some that were pruned by hacking of a limb 5 feet from the base, without going to a lateral branch. It will be dead or dying, there will be insects , fungus and disease present, and most likely, signs of these, there may be a rotting knot hole in the tree, beginning to rot out the trees support system, probably with water in the hole already. There will be badly attached water sprouts, most of them with fungus present. This is like natural law, it is self evident! Yet year after year, I watch as “trained arborists”, continue to do this! Why? I don’t know. Perhaps their training was flawed.

We all have personal pet peeves. One of mine, is bad tree pruning practices. It sometimes seems impossible to get this message across to people, especially when they cannot see the big picture, so I thought I would present it in a slightly different way:

Your mission for today? Destroy something that it took you and nature years of cooperation to produce! We will accomplish this by the following means:

• Take the top out of that tree. Great Idea! Let’s just whack of the top, wherever we like, and leave it open for disease, that will cause the limbs to die back to a healthy branch, and let water seep in, to rot it. Then there will be a new flush of young, poorly arranged, badly connected shoots, to invite in more disease and fungus.

• A slower death can be brought about by a more subtle approach: When thinning the limbs, don’t cut back to a lateral branch, just leave a few inches sticking out to rot and prevent healing. As this nub slowly rots away, we can invite more water, and disease into the main part of the adjoining limb, causing it to eventually rot, causing the next limb to rot………

• When we prune, make sure we allow the bark to be pulled away from the area around the cut. This will stop the flow of nutrients to the area, drying it out, and then allowing more water to settle in pockets inside the bark. This is another great way to invite in disease.

• If we happen to accidentally make a proper cut in the proper place, don’t worry, just spray on some petroleum based products, to keep it from healing or callousing over. The best product for this is a cleverly miss-named product known as pruning paint.

Well, I think you get the picture. I have worked in this industry for many years, and it still amazes me. I see it all the time, being done by “professionals” who should know better. The odd thing to me is that it is self evident, yet, people persist in doing it. All that needs to be done to prove my thesis, is to look at the results!